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December 20, 1998

"Superstitions"

While in the Phoenix Public Library, John checked out a book about the Arizona outdoors, in which he found an interesting trail for us to try. It was a five-mile long trail that leads to Angel Basin, where there are Native American cliff dwellings. That peaked my curiosity, as I had always been fascinated with Indian ruins. As a college student, I used to visit the University of Arizona Museum during lunch just to see the Native American exhibits. So I said, "Let's do it."

For this hike, we invited Erika as well as my best friend Nacole and her roommate Rachel. Nacole and Rachel were busy, so it was only the three of us. We left at six a.m. that morning and drove to Florence Junction, on US 60. Just east of there we found FR 357, which leads to FR 172, in the Tonto National Forest. FR 172 took us to the Woodbury Trailhead, which was where our adventure of the day would begin.

Despite what we had read in the book, FR 172 was in very good condition and we had no problem driving to the trailhead. We arrived promptly at eight in the morning and began hiking the JF Trail, which is a three-mile long trail leading to Tortilla Pass. According to the book, the JF Trail (which stands for Jack Frazier, a local rancher) has the longest climb in the Superstition Mountains, climbing 800 feet in 1.7 miles. I determined that it couldn't be any worse than West Clear Creek #17, which climbed 1800 feet in that distance.

At first the trail was very easy as it was fairly level for the first mile and a half. As we entered the Superstition Wilderness (a moment that John and I celebrated with a kiss -- "Honey, we're in another wilderness area together!"), we began the climb to Tortilla Pass. Although it was steep in some places, I really didn't find it very difficult at all. I traveled at my own pace and practiced some techniques I had learned on the internet; and before I knew it, I was there! I was very happy that the uphill stretch didn't kill me -- I wasn't even winded!

The view from Tortilla Pass was magnificent, but the winds were another story. Bitterly cold winds blasted by us, chilling us down to the bone. We took a few minutes to bundle back up again while we admired the beauty of the Superstition Mountains. Then we continued hiking.

At this point, we were hiking the Rogers Trough Trail, a 4.5-mile long trail that would take us to the cliff dwellings at Angel Basin. From Tortilla Pass, it was all downhill to the creek that cut through Rogers Canyon, which was still two miles away. Since it was all downhill, it didn't take us long to reach Angel Basin, and by noon, we had found the cliff dwellings.
The Ruins at Angel Basin
John and I loved Angel Basin. It is in a beautiful riparian area with large shade trees -- some of which were bare because of winter -- and a large grassy meadow. John and I added it to our list of ideal backpacking campsites, and I know that someday we're going to do it. A hundred yards or so from Angel Basin, in the side of the cliff, we found large caves, in which we discovered the Indian ruins. Though it was a difficult climb through desert shrubs to get to them, we managed to scramble up to the dwellings, where we had lunch next to the crumbling ruins.

After eating our sandwiches and fruit, we explored the caves and found that some of the cliff dwellings were in very good condition. One house in particular still had a roof with only a small hole through it. I was amazed that these houses had survived the ravages of time before the area was established as a wilderness area. I read that, in the 1800s, miners came to the Superstitions in search of gold, and yet in their efforts to mine that precious ore they did not touch the ruins. Fortunately, the area is not as frequently visited as it was back then, so maybe the ruins will still be there for another generation.

Having accomplished our goal for the hike, we decided to leave, but the big question was, which way should we go? Should we hike out the way we had come, or should we complete a loop trail that would add two miles to our journey? After looking at the map, we determined that completing the loop made more sense because there wasn't much of an elevation gain involved. Returning the way we had come meant that we would have to hike uphill for two miles. We decided to complete the loop, meaning that we would hike the remainder of the Rogers Trough Trail (another 2.5 miles) until we reached the junction with the Reavis Ranch Trail, at which point it would be another 1.5 miles to the trailhead. Then it would be another 4.5 mile hike back to the van.

Except for a few steep but short climbs, the remaining four miles of the trail was not bad at all. It followed the creek through Rogers Canyon, occasionally crossing the creek or climbing over ridges to avoid natural obstacles. By two o'clock, we were at the trailhead. After taking a short break, we started hiking down FR 172A towards FR 172.

John, however, knew that we were tired, so he hiked ahead of us in order to get the van and come back to pick us up. Unable to hitch a ride, he decided to cut his hiking time by going cross-country. In doing so, he managed to get at least two miles ahead of us. His plan was foiled, however, when Erika and I hitched a ride in the back of a pick-up truck, driven by a couple of hunters. Two miles down the road we found John, and the hunters stopped for him. They drove us back to the Woodbury Trailhead, and Erika gave them five dollars for their troubles.

As we drove away from the Superstitions, the sun began to set on us, marking the end of another good day of hiking. That night we celebrated with pizza and wine as we rested our tired legs.

 

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