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July 24, 1999

"Riding the Rapids"

At 7:00 a.m., we awoke to a dreary, gray morning. A thick layer of gray clouds covered the sky, and it looked as though they would open up and pour rain on us at any minute. It didn't matter to us, though, because where we were going, we were already going to get very wet. The night before, we had made reservations at the Glacier Raft Company to do a half-day of whitewater rafting at 10:00 a.m.

In all honesty, this was the part of the trip I was not looking forward to, but John talked me into going. He had gone whitewater rafting during his first visit to Glacier National Park in 1996, when he was in Montana for the Lost Prairie Boogie, and he told me that it was a lot of fun and that I would enjoy it. So, on this cool and dreary morning, wearing clothes that we didn't care if they got wet, John and I drove over to the Glacier Raft Company to check in.

After signing accident waivers, we were given rain gear and told that we had to be ready to board the bus at 10:00 a.m., at which time the bus would take us to the boat launch along the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. While we were waiting, we purchased a disposable, waterproof camera so that we could take pictures during the adventure. Then, at 10:00, everyone began to climb on board the busses. There were two of them, one for the all-day tour, and the other for the half-day. The half-day bus was packed, mostly with little children. John hoped that we would not end up on the same boat as them. Fortunately, all of the children were with one group, and they didn't want to be separated, so we were relieved. (Of course, we did end up on the boat with a teenaged girl who looked as though she was only there because her parents forced her to be there. She was wearing so much black eye make-up that she looked like a raccoon by the time the trip was over!)

Our boat guide was Val, who promised us that it was going to be a wild adventure. Upon reaching the boat launch, John asked Val if we could sit at the front of the boat -- that way, I would get the best seat in the house. For our own safety, he asked us if we had done whitewater rafting before, to which John replied, "I have. She hasn't, but she has done a lot of canoeing." Val was sold on that, so he put us both up front. Before shoving off from the boat launch, Val began the standard safety lecture, starting with how to sit in the boat so that we won't fall overboard. He also taught us how to paddle -- which was the same as paddling a canoe, except that we would really have to paddle hard once we hit the rapids -- and he lectured us on what to do should we fall overboard. There were various safety lines all over the boat for us to grab onto should we start to slip overboard. If, by chance, we did fall out of the boat, he instructed us to float on our backs and wait for him to cast out a line to rescue us. The life vests we wore would ensure that we remained afloat until we were rescued. Val then explained that he didn't have to rescue many people at all from the water, because not many people fall out of the raft.

As I listened to the safety lecture -- and as we started floating downstream -- I began to feel more at ease, a little less afraid of falling into the water and dashing my head against a rock. I was secure in the boat, my feet tucked into the mesh of the raft, and I was enjoying the gently ride down the river.

Then...we hit the first rapid, and after that, I was sold! As the waves crashed against the raft and sent it into the air, I screamed, "Wahoo!" like Homer Simpson; and when we were in calm waters again, John looked at me and noticed that I was smiling like a schoolgirl.

That first rapid was barely a class one. In between the first and the second set of rapids, Val quickly described what the different classes of rapids meant and that we would only seen ones, twos, and threes along this trip -- nothing too dangerous, but enough to make it exciting all the same. He also explained that, at each set of rapids, there were photographers -- one of whom was his pregnant wife -- waiting to take pictures of us; these pictures would be available for sale once we returned from our trip.
White water rafting on the Flathead River
As we progressed downstream, we began to hit the class two and class three rapids, and soon we were soaked the cold river water, which was a bitter fifty degrees that day. But I didn't care, because each time we hit a rapid, I was laughing and hollering because it was the most fun I had ever had (with the exception of my first skydive, of course).

About halfway through the ride, Val decided to take us up against a wall. We watched the other rafts ahead of us and noticed that none of them dared to take the risk of riding up against it. However, Val figured that we should get our money's worth. He told us that, at the moment we hit the rapid, the people seated on the left hand side of the boat should get up and lay on top of the people on the right to keep the raft from turning over. This was executed perfectly, and we rode through the rough rapid without capsizing, though we got completely soaked in the maneuver!

And then, when the trip was over and we arrived back in West Glacier, at the Glacier Raft Company, I told John, "That was so much fun! I want to do that again!" He merely smiled and said to me, "I told you that you'd like it. Would I ever take you anyplace that I think you wouldn't enjoy?"

The trip was over at 1:00 p.m., just in time for lunch. After returning to our cabin to change into some dry clothes, we stopped for lunch at the family restaurant in Apgar Village. Then, John suggested that we take a drive into Polebridge so that we could see the northwestern part of the park. Looking at the map of Glacier Park, he found a dirt road -- Glacier Route Seven -- that would take us all the way to Kintla Lake. I said, "Let's do it!" because what is a Verley adventure without at least one dirt road?

As we began our journey, it began to rain lightly on us -- just enough to keep us from doing any hiking, but not enough to force us to turn back. Our trip took us through thick, lush virgin forests, past the Fish Creek Ranger Station and campground, up through vast, open prairies, where we found that there were privately owned ranches within the park. The road then traversed a section of the forest that had burned many years ago. Among the scorched trees were baby pine trees, no more than ten feet tall and still growing so that one day, they'll be as tall as their predecessors.

At last, we came to Kintla Lake and campground -- a campground that has very few amenities, unlike those more centrally located within the park. John and I parked the car there and walked up to the shores of the lake. The gloom of the rainfall hung over the waters of the lake, covering the mountains, which surrounded it. We imagined that, on a clear day, the lake must be very beautiful, but with all of the rain, we weren't going to be able to see it.

For our return trip, John decided that we should take the route through Polebridge, a small town outside of the park boundaries, where there was a bar/restaurant with about six tables -- all full that afternoon -- and a general store with one gas pump that was out of gas that day. Needless to say, we didn't stay there very long. Continuing on our return trip, we decided to take the North Fork Road, which followed along the North Fork of the Flathead River, just outside of Glacier National Park. This, too, was a dirt road, but this one was about four lanes wide and well graded -- what we would call "super slab." Along the way, the road was lined by beautiful ranch houses with rich green yards covered by tall, majestic trees and enclosed by rustic wood fences -- such lovely scenery to enjoy during the long drive back to Apgar.

By the time we reached West Glacier, we were nearly out of gas, and we were ready for dinner. We decided not to eat out that night, but instead we would have grilled cheese sandwiches and noodle soup -- something to take away the chill from the cold and rainy day. We stopped at the store to pick up a few groceries. Then we took everything back to the cabin to eat.

After dinner, we went for a walk around Apgar Village so that we could do a little souvenir shopping for our parents and to buy a deck of cards for ourselves. Ernie's Mercantile had the perfect deck for us. The back of the cards has a cartoon drawing of a bear dressed as an elk, standing next to a sign that says "Do Not Feed the Bears". The bear, in turn, is holding a sign that says "Trust me." After that, we walked over to another gift shop, where John bought me a one-week anniversary gift: a very nice and very warm Glacier National Park jacket.

We spent the rest of the evening playing poker with our pocket change and trying to play rummy (but John couldn't remember the rules!). We had so much fun that we lost track of time -- it was midnight before we finally crawled into bed and went to sleep...

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