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June 14, 1999

"Gone Fishing"

Being early risers, John and I were already awake at 5:30 a.m., when Bill decided to jump off of the roof of the houseboat, screaming "Yahoo!" as he splashed into the cold lake water that morning. Janice and Danny, however, learned that it was next to impossible to sleep late when everyone else on board was awake at the crack of dawn.

First catch of the tripNow that he was awake, Danny decided to do a little fishing to make use of the fishing license he had bought in Page. Janice had already caught a fish on the first day -- a rather large bass -- but Bill kept telling him that "there were no f-ing fish in that lake." He had already been trying to catch something for two days, but he wasn't ready to give up yet. Thanks to the early hour of the morning, Danny finally caught a fish -- a small bass, which he threw back into the lake.

Since it was such a beautiful morning, John and I decided to go for a canoe ride to the end of the canyon, to see what was there. After paddling for only ten minutes, we came to a slickrock shelf, where we tied up the canoe then continued on foot for about a half a mile. At first we walked across the slickrock. Then, we came to a game trail that took us deeper into the canyon, through prickly plants, soft sand, and large boulders. Finally, John found what he was looking for: a large, flat boulder on which we could "play naked"...

On the way back to the canoe, John found another hike for us to do. In this canyon, the walls were steep -- but not quite vertical -- and covered with dry, grassy meadows, at the top of which were huge amphitheaters which contained what looked like ruins. In the midst of one meadow, there was a sand "chute" that was probably a trail for mountain goats, as well as a series of narrow, treacherous switchbacks leading all the way to the top. "Those could be Anasazi ruins," John pointed out. "Let's go look."

Climbing up the slope of this hill was very challenging and treacherous as it was made primarily of soft sand and prickly plants and dried out shrubs. We were also not wearing our hiking boots, so the steep climb up the switchbacks took its toll on my ankles. A few times, I thought about turning back, but then I thought, "What if there really are Anasazi ruins up there?"

Of course, I didn't turn back, and when I reached the top, I discovered that our "Anasazi ruins" were nothing more than a pile of rocks that had fallen off of the canyon walls. Apologizing, John suggested that we go back to the boat. "Yeah, but how are we going to get down from here?" I demanded.

Fortunately, getting down from there was the easy part. All we had to do was slide down the sand "chute", which actually proved to be fun. We reached the bottom in half the time that it took us to climb up there, and once we were done, we climbed into the canoe and returned to the houseboat.

Upon our return, we discovered that the others had taken the speed boat to go water skiing, so John and I ate breakfast and relaxed while we waited for them to come back. It took them a while to return, though, so we pulled up the anchors and prepared to leave, hoping that we would meet them along the way...and that was when they returned!

That was the day we finally made it to the Escalante River Arm and began exploring its side canyons. We also found The Rincon, a huge butte, which had two trails that we wanted to hike. One of these trails wrapped around the back of the mountain, through a wash where the Colorado River used to run, before it broke through to the front side. The other trail went straight to the top; that was the one John wanted to hike. By the time we made it to the Rincon, though, it was too late in the day to go hiking, so we decided to save it for the next day.

Our afternoon was spent in Escalante, exploring its side canyons in the houseboat and in the speed boat. We saw Davis Gulch, where we found La Gorce Arch; unlike Rainbow Bridge, we were able to walk underneath this structure. John, Danny, and Janice did so and jumped into the water on the other side of it. We moored the boat in Davis Gulch to have lunch and go swimming before taking the speed boat into Fiftymile Creek. For the most part, though, the afternoon was a lazy one. While sailing through the main channel of the Escalante arm, John and I crawled on top of the houseboat, where he read his book and I took a nap (and, yes, we also "played" up there).

The excitement of the day took place that evening, when the weather took a turn and forced us to look for a campsite early. We couldn't find anything next to the Rincon, so we went into Iceberg Canyon, where we found a very large cove in which to beach the houseboat. Just after mooring the boat, the wind picked up, and gray clouds quickly moved overhead, threatening to open up over us. And, on top of that, the speed boat ran out of gas! We had an extra five gallons of gas, which we poured into the gas tank, and we hoped that it would be enough to get us to Hall's Crossing Marina the next morning.

Once we were settled, Danny took his fishing rod and tried to catch another fish to no avail -- ironically, Iceberg Canyon was supposed to have excellent fishing! He tried for most of the night, until it got too dark to see, but he simply could not get the fish to take his bait. Then, his luck took a turn for the worse when Janice started praying for him. A few minutes later, John got an idea; he cut off a piece of fishing line and tied a baited hook to one end then attached the other end to the railing of the boat.

Caught with a piece of hot dog tied to a string...And what happened? He caught a huge carp!

After that, Danny gave up fishing for the night. (Janice and Danny managed to get us back, though, when they defeated us at Trivial Pursuit -- a game that was supposed to be John's forte. It was a humiliating loss.)

That night, Janice and Danny took their turn sleeping on top of the houseboat. At bedtime, they crawled onto the air mattress and snuggled into their sleeping bags...and suddenly, they were being dive-bombed by bats! Then, just a couple of hours after the rest of us had gone to sleep, the wind picked up, and it began to rain. Janice and Danny were forced to pull their bed down to the front deck, where they spent the rest of the night.

I, however, slept very well, having taken sinus medicine before going to bed because I was beginning to feel a cold coming on...

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